Just like with every other surfboard category, dividing lines are disappearing and board designs are now pulling characteristics from different designs to produce “Hybrid Designs”. The Takayama In the Pinks are a perfect example of this. Noserider shape and volume, with a crisp, defined rail release in the tail and a 2+1 fin set up. This allows the board to get up and really go when you need it to. The smaller Robert August What I Rides (9’0 and smaller) also have a clean, defined rail release on the tail to help these boards attain higher speeds in medium to larger surf. These two boards are the most popular noserider and all around longboard in the world. Goes to show what happens when you take the best of both worlds and mash it up into one board!
Question #2 : Why do some of these boards have rounded rails while other have sharp edges? What’s up with all the different tail shapes?
Noseriders typically have rounded rails the entire length of the board, meaning there is no crisp edge to release the water cleanly on the back third of the board like on HPLBs or shortboards. This slows the board down and keeps it close in the pocket while the surfer is on the nose. You will often see larger square tails on noseriders, especially ones being ridden in smaller, less powerful surf. The larger the tail, the more lift it creates for generating speed, but also the larger platform it creates for the lip of the wave landing ON IT – which counter balances you up on the nose.
HPLBs have a crisp edge on the tail of the board, which creates a clean release of the water off the tail – allowing the board and surfer to generate speeds much higher than the speed of the wave. On the HPLBs you will see a variety of tail shapes and areas in order to max out the performance in a specific wave range/type or to provide the max range for all uses. Regardless of the tail shape (squash, round, round pin, swallow) the larger the tail, the better the board will work in small to average surf. If you are using the board for larger, more powerful surf, or even using it as a double duty gun for BIG surf, you want to look at reducing the tail area so that the board doesn’t become too lifty underfoot and start bouncing at speed.
Noseriders have single fins, which are typically a little slower (a good thing for keeping the board in the pocket of the wave) and offer a deeper depth to stay in the water when you are up on the nose and lifting the tail. The single fins also have a sleeker feel when you are trimming and gliding in sub par surf. The tell tale signs of a noserider is rounded rails to the tail with a nice single fin.
HPLBs typically have 2+1, Quad, or 4+1 fin set-ups. None of these are better than the other, what you are looking for is the best match for the design of the board, your surfing style and the waves you are looking to surf the board on. All of these fin configurations are designed to help generate more speed and increase maneuverability when compared to single fins.
This is an easy one! In general, lightweights should look at the 8’6 range. Midweights 9’0 and Heavy weights 9’6. Super heavyweights? Either beef out your 9’6 with a bit more width and thickness, or go longer up to 10’. All of these measurements are not “exact”. If you are a lightweight and find an awesome 8’4 – 8’7”, go for it! Once you go above 10’, most surfers will have a hard time controlling the extra length, although the skilled surfer will revel in the extra glide!
There are several constructions to choose from when shopping for a longboard. PU/Poly is the tried and true construction that has been around the longest. PU/Poly has a nice feel both in small wave “glide” mode and also at max speed when bouncing and chatter become a concern. PU/Poly is also the most fragile and the heaviest. If you have a problem with “spacial awareness” (meaning you just don’t know what a 9 foot turning radius circle is), you will probably spend more time repairing this type of board than actually surfing it once you get done walking it into every corner of your garage. The added weight can also be a drag for lighter built surfers who have to carry their boards long distances to the beach.
Epoxy sandwich constructions offer a lighter weight / higher durability board that offer great performance with very little maintenance and a very long life. This construction is a great choice for no nonsense, all fun, all the time recreation, or sharing your board with a family or group of friends, where you might not always know how the board is being treated. True afficionados will say you HAVE TO GO PU/Poly in order to have a “real” board, but it’s better to be honest with yourself and how you treat your gear. If you are careful with keeping something in good shape then you can consider a PU/Poly board. If you are a train wreck and tend to consume gear rather than polish it, then epoxy sandwich might be the best way to go, especially on your first board.
The hype is REAL. Surf foiling is here to stay, and it is a lot more attainable than you might think. You won’t be ripping third reef Pipe with Kai Lenny on your first day but with the right plan of attack and the right gear you will be out there gliding down the wave face in no time.
You definitely have a board you don’t surf anymore. Either you had too many beers and gained weight or you just don’t like the outdated shape. Take the fins out of this board and stick on a Foilmount and voila you have your new foilboard. The Foilmount fits any board and can be removed if you ever want to surf your old board again.
The surf foils are the most versatile hydro foils on the market. The wings are extra large and have ton of lift for getting on foil at low speeds. You can virtually put any board on a surf foil and have fun with it. They work for surfing, wake surfing, SUP, and kiteboarding.
The last thing you want to do is paddle out in a crowded line up and try to catch waves on a foilboard. You will probably hurt yourself and someone else in the process. Learn to ride the foil behind a boat. It doesn’t take much of a boat to get going on a foilboard. Check out REAL Team Rider James Jenkins behind a 12’ Jon Boat with an 8hp engine.
Even if you are a hot surfer, paddling with a foil below you will take a little time getting used to it. Find a beach with small soft waves and get used to paddling around and taking off on small uncrowded waves.
Surfing has always been about staying in the pocket of the wave. Now with the foilboard everyone is way out on the shoulder gliding away. It is funny how times change, but carving a foil out on the open face of a wave will have as frothed out about 1’ waves as you were the first time you went surfing.
You’ve spent all Summer creating speed and looking for boards that help you create even more speed. Now that Fall/Winter is right around the corner and hurricane swell season is on our doorstep, it’s time to talk about boards that CONTROL speed.
There’s a big shift in what you need your board to do when you move from Summer dribble to pumping overhead tubes. The biggest difference is the added power/speed your board creates (or doesn’t) as well as how it handles high speeds and steep/late drops. In Summer dribble, you are looking for as much added speed as possible, so this means flatter rockers, wider widths and larger tail blocks. All of these add power and speed to a wave that doesn’t have much of its own.
When you shift to good surf, you don’t need to create as much speed, you actually need the board to be more “neutral” and control the speed rather than create it. This is where you will see more rocker, more foiled out rails, narrower widths and a smaller tail block. All of these tweaks allow the board to sit down in the water at higher speeds and remain in control.
This is all well and good, if you can even catch the wave, and this is where step ups shine above standard “go to” boards with their extra paddle power. There’s nothing worse than staring into a perfect barreling wave that you can’t get to….all day long. Swift moving currents and large, open playing fields mean lower to no wave count for boards that can’t paddle out of their own way.
Spyder Surfboard reviewsToday we took a walk through the REAL Boardloft, picking out some notable boards that fit these descriptions. It’s fun doing this because every time you hold one of these boards you can envision the waves it’s going to excel in, and for once, it’s not knee to waist high! If you have any questions about any of these boards, feel free to shoot us an email or call us at the shop. These boards are all available for immediate shipment to anywhere in the world. Express shipment is also available when that last minute hurricane swell has you frothing….
Pyzel Bastard and the Channel Islands Rook 15: These aren’t exactly step ups, but they are good wave shortboards. More rocker, narrower widths, foiled rails and smaller tail blocks keep these boards in the water and able to be aggressively surfed when conditions are pumping. John John Florence used his Pyzel Bastard to win the WSL France event last year as well as surfing it in “small” Teahupoo. Adriano De Souza used his Rook 15 in pumping Margaret River to take him to the podium. These are great “go-to” boards for pumping waves, and for surfers who don’t need a ton of extra length in their boards, just modified shapes to handle the conditions.
These boards are close to daily driver hybrids, with the chunky edges taken off and a bit of rocker added. You can still use them when the swell hasn’t arrived yet, but they tend to excel in waves stomach high and above. Boards that come to mind are the Roberts Meat Cleaver, Pyzel Nugget, …Lost Mini Driver, Vernor Silver Bullet 2 and Rusty Rooster. These are all great “single board quivers” for surfers looking to keep their gear to a minimum. They also work well placed above a groveler for a two and done quiver.
The Roberts Meat Cleaver has been on fire and is one of our best selling shortboards in the loft. When you look at the Meat Cleaver, it looks as perfect as you could ever hope for in a do everything hybrid. When you start off with the proven Roberts White Diamond 2 and then modify it for better surf, it’s a formula that works.
The Rusty Rooster also fits well into this category. The wider nose and flatter rocker help you scrape into tons of set waves and beat the current. Once you’re on them, the added tail rocker and control provided by the Venturi bottom keeps the board locked in and confident during high speed turns and barrels.
The …Lost Mini Driver probably has the highest number of boards out there on the water and the highest stoke factor, as most people really like this board and have epic session stories using one. Easiest way to describe it, is that it’s Lost Rocket’ish, but with a reverse rocker (more nose rocker/less tail rocker), more foiled rails, with a rounded pintail. The rocker pattern favors back footed surfers.
The Vernor Silver Bullet 2 looks like a Lost Rocket from across the room, but has 100% Vernor rails and bottom shape to give it its own distinctive feel and performance. For all the Vernor Mini Simmons diehards out there, this is your go to step up when the Mini Simmons reaches its limits.
The Vernor Silver Bullet 2 looks like a Lost Rocket from across the room, but has 100% Vernor rails and bottom shape to give it its own distinctive feel and performance. For all the Vernor Mini Simmons diehards out there, this is your go to step up when the Mini Simmons reaches its limits.
Last but not least is the Pyzel Nugget. Think of it as a fuller Pyzel Short Cut or a skinny Pyzel Rat Skull, as you can take it well into the range of both of those boards. The Nugget is a good go to board for almost anything, and the added paddle power of the flat/full forward sections of the board help you scrape into some serious set waves with it.
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